Day two - the work begins, Tuesday 12th

I slept very well all night, waking once to the sound of an elephant trumpeting which started the 400 or so dogs barking, but I fell back to sleep right away. Daylight came quickly and after a quick shower and breakfast we were assigned our group tasks for the day. We had the job of collecting bamboo leaves for the elephants as our morning chore and the ten of us set off with our volunteer coordinator Aek. 

I wasn't sure quite what to expect when we were all given work gloves and machetes and walked from the park through the village to a field where a stack of bamboo lay already cut. As it turned out, it was more of a delicate process, picking the leaf tips off the stalks and collecting them in several large laundry baskets. It was not strenuous and we could stand in the shade chatting and getting to know each other better as we picked away - gloves and machetes not needed. Back at the park we helped unload a truck of pineapples - all hands on deck to stow the fruit on shelves in the kitchen.

Elephant lunch feeding time again and I had an opportunity to speak with ENP founder Lek and her husband Darrick. Our lunch was yet another feast and I opted for the salad bar today as it was already quite hot (reaching upper 30's Celsius). After lunch a video presentation: Giants of the Forest and then back to work. 

Our afternoon task was to collect rocks from the river and mix cement to build fence posts to keep the elephants from some of the big trees on the property. they like to use the trees as scratching posts and can damage or kill them.

This evening after dinner we have a Thai cultural night and I think by then I'll be exhausted and another sound sleep will come easily.

ENP - the first day, Monday 11th

Entering the ENP office this morning, I saw the light that was the joyous spirit of Lek, sitting at her desk amidst the happy chaos of all the new volunteers getting registered, excited to be starting this adventure. I knew then that I had made the right choice to come here.
The drive from Chiang Mai was about 90 minutes with a refreshment stop before we left the main highway and started to wind our way up the narrowing rural roads.

The first glimpse of the valley that ENP calls home sent shivers up my spine, the view across the flat grassland to the river and elephants, yes,elephants, our first sighting was absolutely dreamlike. It was like waking from a dream and finding that it was real. We had an orientation from Volunteer Coordinator 'Can' and then an opportunity to feed lunch to the elephants before we ate - and thank you Detlef for buying 'Mae Do' her lunch ..... this photo is for you! Our buffet was delicious and so much food, so much choice, all vegetarian ... Pumpkin Curry .... I could dine on that alone for a week!

We toured the sanctuary and were assigned rooms. After a visit to the dog sanctuary and a briefing from Stef, we had time to settle before heading down to the river. Being so close to these beautiful animals felt prehistoric, gentle giants ambling there way down to the water. It's difficult to put into words what this day has been, beyond all my expectations.

This evening we had a welcome ceremony conducted by a Shaman form the local village with the women elders who tied a bracelet on everyone's wrist - a special keepsake of a magical day.

Mae Ping River cruise

I started the day going west again and across the moat from the old city into what seemed like a much more touristy area along Tha Phae Road. I stopped for an early lunch at 'Taste from Heaven" a vegetarian restaurant that supports Elephant Nature Park with many framed photos for sale of the elephant herd. I had crispy fried tofu which was delicious!

After having nearly filled my daily quota of temples already I visited my first Chiang Mai bookstore - a smallish one called Bookzone, which is across the street from Wat Bupparam - it had a lot of really interesting local books, music and maps.

I arrived at the Mae Ping River and went south from the Nawarat bridge to look for the starting point of the river cruise tours. On arrival at the kiosk, I signed up quickly as there was a boat just leaving and they held it for me. 

 A leisurely two hour trip up the river and back, with a refreshment break at a herb farm before turning around. We saw a lot of multimillion dollar homes, all of fairly new construction, which were juxtaposed with the patched-up shacks which were themselves sitting on half-million dollar riverfront properties.

It was a leisurely way to spend the early part of the afternoon, although it felt much later than that when we got back to the dock. I zig-zagged my way back to the centre of the old city and the stalls were already starting to set up for tonights weekly market.

Wat day is it?

I was awake and up out of bed early, spending the morning walking the streets of the old city. It wasn't too hot in the day yet, about 26c (77f) and easy to get around. I followed Ratchadamnoen Road west until I hit the moat and after checking in at the ENP office, I headed south from there. 

Following the moat on the south side and the remnants of the city wall, I cut-back through the busy streets and into a market, winding my way back to the hotel. 

I stopped a several Wat (Temples) along the way, I love the architecture and decoration. There are so many in the city, several within one square block. I can't imagine being 'templed-out' but will have to pace myself just a little.

This afternoon I headed out in search of some necessities (the toiletries I didn't have in my carry-on bag, a change of clothes and a pair of swim shorts) given that my luggage won't arrive until almost midnight tonight and I don't really feel like doing another emergency laundry in the bathroom sink! Dinner tonight was Chicken Pad Thai and Mango with sticky rice accompanied by a Chang beer - all for $6.

I have probably walked several miles today, which makes up for the 17 or more hours I spent in plane seats yesterday! This afternoon's temperature was in the upper 30's (100f) but with lots of water breaks and iced coffees, I did pretty good. It is a fascinating city. Crossing the street is an adventure in itself.

Travel Day

A one hour and twenty minute delay leaving Seattle (inbound flight was late) threw the rest of the day into question. A connecting time is Seoul of only 70 minutes evaporated and it was a roll of the dice whether I will be overnight in South Korea or continuing on to Chiang Mai. Thankfully the travel gods allowed a 'squeaker' to get from one plane to the next one - less than 20 minutes seat to seat, a run through the entire Incheon airport (and another security screening just for good measure). It felt like an episode from 'The Amazing Race".

 All in all I can say that I love Korean Airlines, the service was wonderful, meals interesting and awesome and the flight attendants both beautiful and attentive. One of the many meals was 'Bibimbap' (photo attached), some assembly required, adding the steamed rice to the main bowl, I ended up throwing the seaweed soup into there too and about a third of the tube of hot Korean sauce did it for me - delicious!

 

I got into Chiang Mai almost on schedule, it was 26c at 11pm and a it's similar temperature and sunny this morning and getting hotter. I'm heading out to find a department store to find some items I can't survive 24 hours without, until my luggage catches up!

Sa-wat-dee krap!